LASER ENGINES 2010
OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS
Thank you for
buying a Laser engine. Your engine has been test run and the carburettor set.
Slight adjustment may be necessary to suit your fuel and installation. The
Laser engine does have some different characteristics to other engines and the
following notes are the result of experience gained from the use of Laser
engines in our own models and, more important those of other Laser owners. We
want you to enjoy using your Laser and ensure reliable performance.
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Breather
nipple |
The carburettor and silencer for the single cylinder engines are packed separately to avoid damage. They
should be fitted as shown.
The main needles are removed on the Vee
Twins. They should be fitted 3 turns open for initial adjustment.
PLEASE phone or E mail any queries , most problems can be solved by a simple call.
RUNNING IN
Careful running in
will ensure a powerful and reliable engine with a very long life. LUBRICATE as
described. Run the engine for 15 to 30 minutes at varying speeds up to full
power before flying. Do not allow the engine to overheat. Do not overload the
engine with a large propeller. Check valve clearances and LUBRICATE. Run for 30
seconds at full power. If the engine maintains full power go and fly. Only use
full throttle for short periods for the first hour running. Full performance
and reliability will be achieved after a minimum of 3 hours running.
OILS , FUEL and general LUBRICATION
Laser engines do not demand
special fuels.
Laser engines will run on fuel without the addition of Nitromethane. 5% is ideal for general running. Up to 12.5%
can be added for contest performance.
15% Synthetic oil. Methanol
+ up to
12.5% nitromethane
For general lubrication use SAE 30 or 2-stroke motor oil. Do not
use multigrade or penetration oils such as WD40. These may have additives or
solvents which could interact with the additives in synthetic oils.
Oil is essential to
prevent excessive wear and seizure. It keeps the engine clean inside by
removing particles created by normal running including by-products of
combustion.
SYNTHETIC OIL is recommended for Laser
engines. Laser engines are manufactured to close tolerances and synthetic oils
will give excellent performance for many hours running. Modern synthetic oils used in commercial model
fuels do not produce carbon or lacquer and give good protection against
corrosion.
CASTOR OIL is a good lubricant
especially for older engines. It produces carbon and lacquer which will mean
the engine will need dismantling and cleaning.
LUBRICATE through the BREATHER NIPPLE with 3-5ml of oil before
and after the initial running in and after every 3 hours running. Lubricate the
engine if it is not to be used for some time and before running again. The
breather nipple can be extended with tubing. Oil may come out of the front
bearing if the breather is restricted, there is a lot of oil in the crankcase
or the engine is left with the nose down. This will not harm the engine.
Methanol does not
vaporise if the temperature is near
freezing and the engine may not start. 5% Nitromethane or 5% petrol will
improve starting in these conditions.
GLOW PLUGS
Most standard
2-stroke 'Hot' plugs work well. Model Technics F6, O.S. 4 cycle, and Enya no3
plugs work well. Try your favourite type
first.
Make sure that the
plug is in good condition, the element is bright and not distorted. Change if
in doubt. Always use a separate glow
battery for starting.
If the plug is
faulty or not a suitable type the engine will not achieve or maintain full
power or will miss fire. A faulty plug can cause detonation which may cause
overheating or severely damage the engine.
VALVE CLEARANCE
Clearance will increase as the engine warms up. Check after every 3
hours running when you lubricate the engine. Clearance is not critical.
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PROPELLERS and FUEL TANKS
Engine 70 80 100 120 150 180
propeller 12x7 13x8 14x8 15x8 16x8 18x8
fuel tank 7oz 8oz 9oz 11oz 12oz 12oz
200m 250ml 300ml 350ml 400ml 400ml
Vee twin 160v 200v 240v 300v 360v
Propeller 16x8 18x8 16x12 20x8 22x8
fuel tank 200ml x2 250ml x2 300ml
x2 350ml x2 350mlx2
Only use glass reinforced plastic propellers.
Propeller and tank sizes are a guide only. Experiment with propellers to suit
the performance of your model. For maximum power run the 70 and 80 at
9-10,000rpm and the 100, 120
and 150 at 8-9,000rpm on
the ground. Good makes of propeller do not need balancing unless damaged. Do
not exceed propeller
manufacturers speeds.
For
general reliability the fuel tank should have an open vent, silencer pressure
is not required. Ensure that the open
tank vent is facing forwards. If the
vent is facing to the rear, side or down a vacuum may be created in the fuel
tank which will cause erratic running or the engine to stop. The tank should be
as near the engine as possible and on the centreline of the carburettor.
Position is very important if the model is highly aerobatic. If you prefer to use silencer pressure you may fit a pressure tapping on the silencer.
Using silencer pressure will not overcome an incorrect tank position but will
make needle settings more critical. Contaminated oil can pass from the silencer
to the fuel tank, pressure will be lost if oil blocks the connecting pipe and
the engine will stop if the pipe is broken or destroyed by heat.
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CARBURETTOR
The carburettor is
a conventional twin needle type. Screwing in the needles leans the mixture.
Once the main and slow running needles are set, little adjustment should be
necessary unless you change fuel type or there is a fault such as a blocked
spraybar.
The main needle
assembly can be removed for cleaning by undoing the hexagonal nut. The fuel
nipple can be removed but do not attempt to remove the spraybar. If the screw holding the throttle barrel in position is removed it
should be re-secured with 'Locktite'.
If an extension is needed on the main needle
it should be made from 20 gauge piano wire.. Brass
tube or heavy extensions should not be used as they may case the needle to
fracture or vibrate causing the mixture to vary.
STARTING THE ENGINE
The engine will not
start easily unless it is at idle position and is well primed. Make sure that
the model is fully restrained for safety.
Make sure the plugs are disconnected during priming
and before running at full power. If the carburettor
is accessible it can be primed by blocking the inlet with a finger and turning
the engine over a few times. If the inlet is not accessible the engine open the throttle fully and spin the engine over with
an electric starter to prime the engine. The throttle should then be set to
idle position and the glow plug connected for starting. If the carburettor is
inaccessible fuel can be forced into the carburettor by blowing into the open
vent of the tank using a piece of fuel tubing.
FAULT FINDING and DISMANTLING
WARNING - Do not remove the
backplate or the timing may be lost.
Most erratic running or
reliability problems are caused by faulty glowplugs, fuel blockage in the
spraybar or the tank vent not facing forwards. Check the glowplugs and replace
if in doubt. Check power supply to the plugs. A supply from a 12v system often
gives problems, always use a separate 1.2 - 2v supply to suit the glowplug used.
Check fuel supply and clean the spraybars. Check tank vent position and fuel.
Poor performance can be caused by a build up of carbon in the exhaust port or silencer
if castor oil is used. The engine will sound very quiet if restricted. If the
silencer is restricted by carbon it should be replaced.
Overheating is often caused by poor cowl design. Baffles should be fitted in the
cowl if necessary like ‘full size’ engines to force cooling air through the
fins on the cylinder and head.
The air outlet should
be at least 1.5 x the area of the inlet. In some model designs the outlet is on
the bottom of the cowl and actually faces forwards preventing air flow through
the cowl. A lip should be formed on the leading edge of this type of outlet to
give a venturi to extract the air from the cowl. The full size 'Pitts' has this
arrangement. Overheating can also be caused by poor lubrication, running the
engine lean, carbon build up, faulty glowplug causing pre-ignition or using a
propeller that is too large and overloads the engine.
Overheating can seriously
damage an engine, this is not covered by guarantee, do not allow your engine to
overheat.
If the cylinder head bolts
become loose this is a positive symptom of overheating.
Loss of compression.
First check that there is valve clearance. Pushing the rocker down can
disengage the rocker which will hold the valve open. The valve adjuster should
be loosened and re adjusted. It can caused by lacquer
build-up on the exhaust valve if castor oil is used, causing it to stick, or
dirt on the valve seat. The engine can often be started with an electric
starter which may cure the problem if it is through dirt. Check valve leakage
by putting a finger over the exhaust outlet and turning the engine over. If you
feel slight pressure then the valve is leaking, Repeat with the inlet.
If the problem
persists the valve must be removed and cleaned. When removing the valves, work
with the cylinder head in a polythene bag. This will contain the springs,
collets and retainers. Mark all the components so that they are replaced in
exactly the same position. The rocker shaft is retained by a central screw. The
valves are released by compressing the springs and releasing the collets just
like a full size engine. Use a nylon scouring pad to clean the valves and
seats. Do not use grinding paste as this is likely to get into the valve guides
and cause severe wear. Reassemble using plenty of 2-stroke motor oil. Never
dismantle unless necessary.
The backplate
fitted to single cylinder engines can be removed provided the cam followers are
in position as they will hold the cams. If the cams are removed they can be
reset so the inlet valve starts opening at approximately 400 (Laser-70
is 300) before top dead centre (TDC) and the exhaust closes at 300
after TDC. There are no markings on the cams for timing.
Do not dismantle
the engine unless absolutely necessary.
Always tighten screws in sequence, head bolts 1,3,5,2,4,
and front housing and backplate 1,3,2,4.
Occasionally check the head bolts and the
bolts holding the front housing.
Vibration on single cylinder engines
can be affected by the engine mounting. We suggest a Glass filled nylon engine mount which will give slight flexibility.
The mount may be cut into two halves to suit the width of the crankcase. Metal
mounts are not recommended. You will have to experiment if soft mounts are
used, they can create more vibration and cause the engine to shake. Good
quality propellers should not need balancing unless damaged. An out of balance
propeller may cause vibration and it is possible that vibration may occur at certain speeds due to
harmonics set up with your engine mount, model and propeller. Vibration may be
reduced by rotating the propeller through 1800 or changing or
balancing. A faulty glow plug will also cause more vibration.
VEE TWINS Installation and setting carburettors.
Laser Vee Twins are
designed to be mounted direct to the firewall. They are much smoother running
than single cylinder engines. Each cylinder should be considered as a separate
engine and a separate fuel tank should be used for each cylinder. If a single
tank is used it should have two ‘clunks’ so the fuel feeds are not connected.
The carburettors
must be carefully synchronised to close together. It is very important that
each carburettor has the same amount of opening at idle position. The barrels
can be closed onto a piece of copper wire used as a gauge to check the
positions.
When you receive the engine the main needles are removed to avoid
damage, they should be fitted about 3 turns open. The engine has been test run
and the slow running needles will be set. Slight adjustment may be necessary to
suit your
installation and fuel.
Start the engine at
idle position and allow to warm up. Open up to full
power and tune one carburettor for maximum speed. Next adjust the second
carburettor. Re-adjust the first carburettor and then re-adjust the second. If
a cowl is fitted to the model the needles must be adjustable from the outside
as airflow through a cowl will often affect the settings of the main needles.
The cowl will not affect the settings of the slow running needles.
The same procedure
is used for adjustment to the slow running needles. Adjusting one carburettor
will affect the other.
COWLS and COOLING and BAFFLES
Overheating is a serious problem for ‘Full size’ aircraft and cooling
air is carefully directed over the engine. Some principles are shown below.
Radial
cowls often show the engine upright. Cooling air will go under the engine
and spill out round the cowl. The engine will overheat. Mount the engine
inverted and block off the front of the cowl except directly in front of
the engine.



WARNING. We cannot accept any
responsibility for damage caused to persons or property by the engine or any
part of the engine as the operation of the engine is beyond our control.
GUARANTEE
Laser
engines are guaranteed against faulty materials, design and workmanship for a
period of one year from receipt of your engine. There is no limit on the amount
of hours the engine is used. We reserve the right to replace or repair any
fault that may occur during this period. The engine must be returned post paid
to A G C Sales Ltd.
The
guarantee does not cover damage caused by misuse or incorrect maintenance which
is beyond our control. This includes use of incorrect fuel, oil or lubricants,
overheating, crash damage or corrosion.
We
reserve the right to extend the guarantee following this period.
Manufactured in the UK by
A G C Sales Ltd.
London Road, Apsley, Tel: 01442 249505
Hemel Hempstead,
Herts. HP3
9ST Fax: 01442 233332
Email info@laserengines.com